Fourth - Getting to know the area before the work actually begins

Tajikistan and particularly Khujand (which I heard pronounced "hoJHAN") were part of the silk route. A very rich history reaching back centuries into the Persian Empire, Alexander the Great, and farther and farther back to make this place impressively unique and interesting.

History - originally Persian, Islamic, this area became a buffer zone during WWI when Briain was in India. The USSR take over gave the people infrastructure, heat, oil, etc., but many poets and mullahs were killed, Qurans burned and there was little education. Culture was lost and now they are trying with celebrations and education to allow ritual and religion and pride in their culture and history to show and be experienced. Recent history is visible, the breakup of the USSR in the very early 1990's resulted in a civil war in Tajikistan for several reasons, some tribal, some financial, some to do with government. Farhod was a very young boy when the civil war occured and though his eyes things were good under the USSR, they had food, all was provided. During civil war (that lasted about 5 years) people stood in lines all day for bread and sometimes came away empty handed. Much promised support from Russian has yet to be seen, even in the current time. There was also a conflict between Uzbec and Tajikistan and apparently Uzbec was/is the favored child, so when land was divided the prized Samarkand went to Uzbec after the collapse. During the USSR the people of these regions could not exercise their freedom of religion, now that is open to express.

The average wage is about 200 Somoli = $50. Unemployment has increased because many men would work construction jobs in Russia, but those are less available due to the "global crisis" (a term heard in Turkey and in Tajikistan). In the language I could sometime hear though not understand the Russian, and most speak Tajik and Russian.

Farhod hired his friend MahmoudJon to interpret for us. Another sweetheart, MMJ :-) is in his early twenties as well and works for Mercy Corp. He speaks Tajik, Russian, Uzbek and English and was a joy to have around. Both of them were actually as they have an incredible sense of humor and weren't shy about teasing any of us. MMJ is married to a 19yo bride who will have their first child at the end of June, beginning of July. In their culture the baby's name will be selected by the father and the grandfather.

The gentle part of their history includes a pride of poets and scientists. We learned at the museum about Rumi and Sino....Sin, medisin, medicine, the father of medicine.

We spoke at lunch about the bazaars, one for each day of the week such as the car bazaar, the animal bazaar and the daily bazaar (glorious bazaar with a section for spices, a section for nuts, a section for produce, a section for meats....so beautiful to behold from the second floor looking down through the arched ceiling to the main floor). Agriculture in Tajikistan consists mostly of cotton, raisins, almost, apricots and angora (goats). I bought the best tasting roasted pistachios at the markets...loved them!

More culture in the coming days during the build as we meet expats and local students