Third - Entering Tajikistan





3am after a flight on Turkish air that was packed, a little sleep but not much. Off the plane, waiting for baggage and people are filling out...? Something that Jeri and I and others didn't have, that magic very necessary form. How to get one? The room was rather small, a few British men were there as well having the same issue, where is the *&%# form? Others have it! Finally a few more were brought in and as we waited in line to get past immigration I saw the sign:


SANITARY - QUARANTINE


Check Paint


It's just after 3am, how can that not be funny :-). Jeri worked hard at herding her fatigued cats to meet our leader from the local Dushanbe affiliate, Farhod, a very kind, soft spoken young man. They took us to the office and as it was not even 5am and no one was there to greet us, we putzed around, then just found the most comfortable spot and laid down, my favorit was on the floor under the conference room table, last thing seen before sleep: the soles of Steve's shoes on the other side of the table. After the arrival of the staff we had a briefing then took off for a walk, and Farhod took us around the neighborhood and into a market which was just being stocked for opening. Markets are always fantastic, the colors and the aromas, the people. We were getting our first glimpse of "national dress" which is a tunic shaped smock dress over pants. So many women wear the same style, yet the creativity comes out in the fabrics they choose, some very vivid! It must be hot though and scarves are often worn. After lunch it was back to the airport for the flight to Khujand and the job site, our reason for being in this time and place. And where is this place amongst the mountains in central Asia?
http://europe.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address&country=TJ&addtohistory=&city=khujand Tucked into central Asia above Afghanistan, to the east and south of Uzbekistan, west of China, south of Kyrgyzstan.


THIS LAND IS GORGEOUS, THE FAN MOUNTAINS RISE UP TO GREET THE PLANE

The plane was OLD...30 or so passenger twin prop and LOUD....but the views, oh my the views. It was a clear day and as we levelled the ground came up to almost meet the belly of the plane in the form of snow covered peaks. Photos just cannot do it justice. As the mountains began to bow away after their elegant presence, the captain came out of the cockpit and went to the back for a beverage. When he tried to get back into the cockpit the door was jammed! He worked and worked at it, then went to the back again, returning this time with a pen knife! This very diminutive captain jimmied the door open with this swiss army type knife. "hope the co-pilot can land this thing alone!" Finally the captain made it back into the cockpit and all was well.




We were met by vans and driven to the Khujand Habitat affiliate, along the way the Russian architecture of several decades ago was very apparent. Some lovely parks, mosques and a theater were the spectacle from my van window seat as I gazed out at the streets so very clean. At the office we saw the layout of the job site. The government had given section "29" the "New Land" for building. There are spaces for about 240 homes and 12 are complete. We were to work on 2 homes in this district each quite close to each other. This build would be a bit different than others as this development is so new no one is there except those building, so there would be little interaction with children, no village feel, too early for roads, gardens etc. On the flip side though, what an honor to be at the ground level of something so important for this area, and imagine a few years from now with more houses built and occupied, a school and some markets what vibrance will come to it. Everything has to start somewhere.



HOME AWAY FROM HOME, APARTMENTS WITH SOVIET ARCHITECTURAL FEEL TO THEM
Our homes for the stay were apartments. In the end quite luxurious! We had TV with over 600 hundred channels and only the BBC that we could find in English. We had AC that sometimes worked, a shower with hot water that worked for me but not for Jeri during the first couple of days. We even had seperate bedrooms in an alcove studio type set-up. It was the dark entrance at night and the 3 flights of stairs that could get a bit creepy, but after we initially saw the dead bolt for the door, we felt quite good about it. First night dinner, get to know each other a bit more and settle in, work begins tomorrow. Farhod picked a restaurant that served a variety of kabob from the stick and in the pot (with a good spicy sauce but not hot), rice and salads. We actually ended up here frequently and acquainted ourselved with a menu that has pictures ( fantastic help when nothing is in English). No other women were in the restaurant except the morning waitresses and sometimes we would sit on an elevated platform on cushions around a draped table. The name of the restaurant is Olive, a short walk from the apartments. Just down the street was an outdoor kabob restaurant which was always hopping and the kabob seemed to be a variety of meats like tongue, some organ meats, lamb and beef. First night in the apartment with the faux wood finish on the door.

Second - Istanbul impressions en route to Tajikistan - with PHOTO LINK







http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=x9w0xi8.3xkr7k7g&x=0&y=-i2pcix&localeid=en_US - this is where all of the photos can be found in slideshow.

I shall begin with first a disclaimer, these are my impressions and my opinions of some wonderful places. During meetings with extraordinary people I took notes on their comments and experiences which are much broader than my own. In no way is this a complete story, it is however a diary of shared experiences in a place many have never even heard of: Tajikistan. Great luck that Istanbul was part of the deal, and glorious gateway to our adventure.

FIRST DAY TOGETHER, THE HABITAT EIGHT
Our little building crew of the Habitat for Humanity Eight met in Istanbul for dinner and instantly started laughing and sharing stories. Some had arrived early to explore Istanbul and Turkey while others like our fearless leader, Jeri had arrived that day. The next day was terrific with a guided tour of the Blue Mosque (my favorite), the Hippodrome and the Haja Sofya followed by Topkopi Palace and a carpet shop. One of my many regrets now that I have returned is not buying a silk rug when I had the opportunity. Our guide was fabulous! So patient with us, good English and truly loves what he is presenting. He did not rush us through anything even though we had a flight that night.


Scroll back a bit to the first night in Istanbul, I had my hotel room to myself, arrived about 1 am and about 5am this voice....and what a voice...singing, chanting and engulfing the city! This first time it woke me and yet was calming, allowing for an immediate return to sleep. It would be heard 5 times a day, that wonderful call to prayer...even in the dark the first experience was HEAR the culture.

A GREAT TOUR OF SULTANAMET AND THE HISTORICAL SITES OF THE HIPPODROME, BLUE MOSQUE, HAJA SOFYA AND THE TOPKAPI PALACE
Haja Sofya, first a church, the entire building done in mosaic on the walls and ceilings, each tile about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch. What dedication. Build in 537 AD it was made of lower Roman columns then red stone brick. Art came later with Christian images of important people, saints and icons of that ilk. After the 13th century it was converted to a mosque (like many religious buildings, think of the Mayans and the Tultecs, and of Angkor which was Buddhist, then Hindu, then Buddhist, then Hindu, each time changing something of the appearance but keeping the structure). All the of mosaic was covered with plaster and repainted with designs as the Muslim faith does not depict people in it's artwork. . Now the building is a museum and can be cherished for it's history spanning both religions and very different times.

A note about tourists: some are fine, some are....living some stereo types! When signs say "no flash" why is it that a few just feel that they are exempt? There is a reason for no flash, to protect the integrity of the artwork and color as long as possible. Sometimes the guards were actually waving the no flash signs in front of people and they would still take a photo with the flash!

The Cat: Many saw when Obama visited Istanbul and the Haja Sofya that he petted "the cat". You will see said cat in the photos, a very calm, quite cross-eyed little fellow. Cats are everywhere in Istanbul, yet the majority seem quite well tended and healthy.

The Hippodrome is quite fascinating as well, what's left of it as it was build originally in the 2nd century and enlarged in the 4th. It was a venue for entertainment, games and at times, executions. The Byzantines and Ottoman eras of the city and the land are worth learning about. Anatolia means: Land where the sun rises.

Our flight (the one per week) to Dushanbe Tajikistan departed at 8:30 that night and landed in Dushanbe at a little after 3am. And so began our journey into a land uncharted by any of us, what a joy it turned out to be!

First - Habitat Global Village - do you know....?



25 things you should know about poverty

http://www.habitat.org/hw/june_2009/feature3.html

About Tajikistan http://www.habitat.org/intl/eca/235.aspx

This series of posts is about my Global Village trip to Tajikistan through Istanbul, only my 2nd build. We had a terrific team leader in Jeri, she had experience being on and leading 20 or so builds and I hold her in high regard for her leadership, ability to keep to herd cats (that's what it's like with a group of adults), to go with the flow and be flexible during changes and to have a great sense of humor through the whole thing. Also, huge kudos to Farhod, the Dushanbe based local leader for our group and his friend Mahmudjon, our interpreter.

We were the first group to build in Khujand in 3 years, the photos are of completed Habitat Houses in the area 29, "New Land". 12 of 250 (or so) are complete, not all are Habitat Homes.

Our crew: Jeri, team leader and my room-mate, so much fun to be around she bore the responsibility well
- Jerry and Carol: Jerry doesn't say much but when he does it's either very insightful and brilliant or downright funny! Carol is wonderfully soft spoken and is a writer. I look forward to reading her interviews and impressions
- Steve: called me in Istanbul as we were there earlier than most. I met him in the lobby and we spent a great day together exploring the markets and cruising the Bosphorus. Steve is AMAZING...in his 70's he's English, has lived in Japan for a few decades and has been on several builds. 50 years ago Steve and another man took a worldwide trip, setting off from England with 36 pounds (not much) and worked their way through Europe, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos.....so many places. It took 3 years and he met his love in Japan and worked his way back to her. This was published in an English paper and we read the copy. Now he is retracing his steps...after he left us he went to Ankara in Turkey to get a visa to Iran...God Speed and keep in touch.
- Michael and Barbara: from California, Barbara is a great photographer (I'm depending on her) and Mikey is so dang funny, the guys at the job site warmed up to him immediately. He was always making us laugh.
- Rex: from Baltimore
- Me, from Portland

Farhod and Mahmudjon: our guides, interpreters, negotiators. They were so patient to always explain, answer questions and through everything have an incredible sense of humor. Interpreting is never easy, from people who do it I've heard it's mentally exhausting and the brain has a card file of words, particularly if more than one language is known. But it's the nuances and translations beyond the literal that make it a challenge. These two did very well for us and showed that they have a very savvy sense of people and sense of humor.